Washed by hand, in the right order, with matched products — so that the wash does not cost you the paint it is meant to clean.
Hand washing here means: wheels first as a separate step, then touchless foam pre-wash, then high pressure, and only after that the first hand contact with the paint. We wash using the two-bucket method with pH-neutral shampoo and dry with a drying towel. Depending on the vehicle and how dirty it is, the process takes one to three hours.
In Switzerland, washing with cleaning agents on your own driveway is as a rule not permitted for water protection reasons — the water runs untreated into the ground or the sewer. Here it passes through the separator.
Black, dark blue and anthracite forgive nothing. The fine circles you see in sunlight almost always come from washing — not from driving.
A protective layer is only worth something as long as it is not washed off. Washed pH-neutral it survives; cleaned aggressively, the investment is gone faster than it pays for itself.
6 work steps, in order
As a separate step, with their own brushes and their own bucket. Anyone who does the wheels last carries brake dust across freshly washed paint.
The front end, mirrors and window frames are given time. Rubbed off dry, insect remains turn into sandpaper.
Foamed from the bottom up, three to five minutes of dwell time, rinsed from the top down. The coarse dirt has to be gone before anything touches the paint.
The step that actually removes most of the dirt — and the only one in which nothing rubs against the paint.
One bucket of shampoo, one bucket of rinse water with a grit guard. The wash mitt is rinsed out after every section, and work goes from top to bottom in straight lines — not in circles.
Drying is done by laying the towel on, not by wiping. Door jambs, fuel filler flap and mirror backs are dried individually afterwards so that no run marks are left behind.
Every wash involving hand contact carries a residual risk — ours included. We keep it small by not touching the paint until the coarse dirt is gone. Scratches that already sit in the clear coat do not disappear through washing; as long as they stay within the clear coat they are a case for machine polishing — anything deeper is a case for a respray. And limescale marks from hard water that have been baked in for a long time cannot always be removed completely — we say so beforehand, not afterwards.
Hand washing is included in every package. From package M onwards, door jambs and the fuel filler flap are part of it.
The order of work and the areas that get reached. A gantry machine runs a fixed programme across the outer skin; door jambs, fuel filler flap, mirror backs and wheel arches are left out. We work panel by panel and match the products to the vehicle. Modern textile machines are better than their reputation — the difference is not the fear of scratches, but the result in the places a machine never reaches.
One to three hours, depending on vehicle size and how dirty it is. During booking you see the duration for your configuration before you submit.
Yes — that is exactly the point. We wash pH-neutral, and that is the precondition for a coating reaching its stated service life at all. The most common reason a coating fades earlier than promised is the wrong washing technique.
If it is only about cleanliness: probably not. The difference shows over the years — in paint that does not pick up a few more scratches with every wash, and therefore in its condition when the car is returned or sold.
We work exclusively at our site on Sternmatt 9 in Kriens near Lucerne. You bring your vehicle at the agreed time and collect it once the work is done. We do not offer a mobile on-site service.
Sternmatt 9, 6010 Kriens
Book your appointment now, quick, easy, and with the quality your vehicle deserves.
